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Dan at MAX USA

Fri Jan 25 2008, 03:37am

Registered Member #2

Joined: Sun Jan 21 2007, 08:28pm

Posts: 2866

We are now offering a gusset reinforced weld locked zero slip differential service with 100% unbreakable guarantee up to 350PS. (If you have the money for 400 horses you need to go but a 2 way diff)

Here are the options:
$75 on your clean open diff internals
$150 on your drained open diff pumpkin which will include tear down, solvent cleaning, welding and steel, and assembly with loctite, RTV, and proper torque specs.

Return shipping must be paid in addition to our service for out of town customers who send us they're open diff by UPS. At 16 lbs for the internal gears and 75 lbs dry for a pumpkin you should seriously consider the economies of just sending the internal assembly with pumpkin and ring gear removed. There is a lot of info online regarding diff removal and installation so please search.

There is also a lot of online information and opinions on both sides of the fence regarding weather or not you should get a welded diff so educate yourself. Never get a welded diff if you dont know exactly what you are getting into because it can be dangerous to yourself and others on the street if you dont know the characteristics well. You have been warned, if you have the money go buy a 2 way. If you are a responsible individual with a desire to drift despite your lack of funds we would love to assist.

Here are pictures of the open diff assembly taken apart, a photo of the internal assembly you need to bring/send, the gusset, and one of the multiple welding stages. Note the penetration and quality of the welds - This can only be done with proper technique and machinery!

[ Edited Thu May 15 2008, 07:29am ]

Dan at MAX USA

Sat Nov 22 2008, 01:36am

Registered Member #2

Joined: Sun Jan 21 2007, 08:28pm

Posts: 2866

Most people arent crazy enough to weld a VLSD but we are... and it worked great LOL.

Dan at MAX USA

Mon Jul 25 2011, 10:06pm

Registered Member #2

Joined: Sun Jan 21 2007, 08:28pm

Posts: 2866

customer's question about reinstallation:

I recently had diff welded by you guys. Well I took it into Touge Factory for them to install it and they told me that they couldn't get it to go in because the carrier was warped during the welding.

THE ANSWER:

Its not a fluke or a dud. They all warp. It is after all a ghetto rig solution to locking the rear.

So what happens is its hard to put the ring back on it. However we have found that if the ring wont go in one way we rotate it around until it will go in. If there is a burr or just a little tolerance problem, you can use 80 grit on the meeting surfaces and you'll get it in there. Afterwards, you impact the bolts.

The bearings and the shims likely will not go in at once. you will probably have to leave one shim out and then tap it in carefully with a hammer to get it all together.

Its not perfect but its a "good enough" cheap way to get drifting, and we have never had any trouble after the encouragement the parts require to go back together.

Let me know how it goes, and dont be afraid to be mean to it, its never going to be back to stock, so have TF apply some more elbow grease, or you can always do it yourself if they are wussies about the liability like so many shops these days are.

[ Edited Mon Jul 25 2011, 10:06pm ]

danegerous

Sun Jun 03 2012, 07:53am

Registered Member #52

Joined: Wed May 02 2007, 08:15pm

Posts: 199

Dan at MAX USA wrote ...
or you can always do it yourself if they are wussies about the liability like so many shops these days are.

I lol'd at this

danegerous

Sun Jun 03 2012, 07:55am

Registered Member #52

Joined: Wed May 02 2007, 08:15pm

Posts: 199

sorta wondering if a welded n/a fc rear end will hold up the 1J...well not so much the welded part but the n/a fc part.

Dan at MAX USA

Sun Jun 03 2012, 05:54pm

Registered Member #2

Joined: Sun Jan 21 2007, 08:28pm

Posts: 2866

I dont know what the difference is. It probably will unless you are Daigo Saito.

danegerous

Sun Jun 03 2012, 10:07pm

Registered Member #52

Joined: Wed May 02 2007, 08:15pm

Posts: 199

Well my birth name is daneger daigo saito harding so this could be a problem. but we'll give it a go first and if it blows up, it'll probably make some cool noises. plus Ive never snapped an axle so it could be fun.

I hear you've snapped a few danimal

Dan at MAX USA

Sun Jun 03 2012, 10:34pm

Registered Member #2

Joined: Sun Jan 21 2007, 08:28pm

Posts: 2866

many axle joints

blindboxx2334

Sat Aug 25 2012, 05:06am

Registered Member #2261

Joined: Tue May 22 2012, 10:37pm

Posts: 7

danegerous-

if you have a 1j in your fc, id recommend a s4 t2 rear end (assuming you are trying to slide it) due to the power of the 1j, ive seen pics of twisted and snapped n/a stub shafts, not pretty. the s4 diff clutch type diff that is re-buildable and re-shimable with thicker clutch plates to lock harder. its also a not very expensive 'upgrade' either. the shims are what can get pricey. lol

other guys actually gut it out and leave the center internals of the s4 t2 diff and weld it up and make it more of like a spool diff.

not sure if youve ever been to rx7club.com. but that forum has a lot of info about the fc rear ends, check em out

B

danegerous

Sun Sep 02 2012, 10:50pm

Registered Member #52

Joined: Wed May 02 2007, 08:15pm

Posts: 199

Hadn't heard about dudes using the S4 T2 clutch type as a spool...that's something Martin would find interesting I'm sure. This is just a temporary deal, I would like to get a legitimate differential but for the sake of getting the car running how I want, welded seems to be the best option for now. My kaaz 1.5 made my old fc so much more fun so I'm sure it won't be long before I'm back at their shop to get a new one.

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